I am hoping to finish up our trip today, I know it’s been a couple of long posts but I wanted to be able to tell you about our adventures and my feelings about them. But we have a new adventure coming up this weekend so I need to get us out of Scotland and back home to Italy before that happens.
I left us in Eyemouth, eating breakfast, and contemplating our route. In the spirit of full confession I will tell you that it was in Eyemouth we began thinking that maybe we weren’t going to make it the entire distance. We were both exhausted and really sore. I mean REALLY sore!
It is an interesting thing about taking on activities like long distance hiking or bike touring or any other more extreme form of outdoor activity. You really need a good length of time doing them to adjust your body. I had spent the two weeks before we left walking around with increasingly heavier weight in my pack. I did household chores with my pack on. I exercised, lifted weights, did cardio and still my body was not prepared. I believe you need to be gone for a week to 10 days (or longer) for an experience that is truly enjoyed. Not because having a vacation that long is great (though it is) but it takes 5 to 7 days of the constant same activity before your body doesn’t hate you every step of the way. Will and I were hiking with fully loaded packs just long enough for our bodies to detest us but not long enough to start to make them happy again. 3 full days of hiking just made our bodies rebel! If we could have taken Sunday off as an easy day, gotten a hotel and taken a shower or found another beach where we were isolated and could have just moved around without our bags and relaxed all day we would have been better off. However, when your vacation days are limited and you are hedged in on both sides by an airline timetable you make the best decisions you can for your happiness and health. (Plus our bodies are not as young as our brains think they are).
In Eyemouth we made the decision to call the Bed & Breakfast and see if they had a room for a night earlier.
They did not. So we decided to keep going.
Eyemouth (pronounced Heymooth) is a small harbor town, with a boardwalk area that has different places to get ice cream, an arcade, and several pubs. It is also host to a large golf course. Now since it is a harbor town and we had to descend to get into it… yep, that’s right, we had to climb back out of it. We ascended some stairs, (with pretty purple flowers, called alliums) went past the golf club house, between the 5th and 10th hole and then kept trudging up. After about an hour of walking up hill, by which time we still hadn’t finished passing all of the golf course we realized we weren’t talking to each other anymore. We weren’t fighting or anything, we were just too tired to talk. In fact the best we could do was try not to fall over, we were back on the cliff side and the higher we climbed the farther the drop. We were like drunk weeble-wobbles (you know, the weeble and they wobble but they won’t fall down) but we actually had to worry about falling down.
We finally made it to a pasture enclosure and had to go over a stile (stiles are another way to allow passage through a pasture, like a kissing gate, without harming the fence line. Each side has at least one step up, sometimes several steps, then you step over the top of the fence and steps back down). I almost didn’t make it over and when we got to the other side Will knew I was done. He called around Berwick Upon Tweed and found us a place to stay for the night. All we had to do was make it to Burnmouth and there would be a bus stop that would take us the rest of the way to the guest house. I kept going knowing a destination was in sight, or at least over the next couple of hills.
The bus took us into the main train station of Berwick where we would catch the train back to Edinburgh Tuesday and we got a taxi to our guesthouse. Eastwatch guesthouse was right on the beach and our host, Patrick, was wonderfully kind and accommodating, he even did a load of laundry for us!! After showers and a little down time we walked back into Berwick and had birthday dinner at The Magna Tandoori, excellent food and it wasn’t re-hydrated (at least as far as I know). The next day we poked around Berwick upon Tweed, walking the fortified walls and having some coffee and pastries at Lowry’s at the Chandlery. After a walk out to the lighthouse we decided to have some real food at the Foxton’s Restaurant. Will was craving some fish and chips so that’s what he had. I don’t like fish, no, really, not really, not at all. So, I did not have fish and chips. But the beer was tasty!
After eating we headed to our new B&B, The Rob Roy Inn, to check in for our second night and took a nap.
I think we ended up in the Wookie room; we had weird fuzzy brown pillows and a fuzzy brown throw on our bed. I am not sure if there were any Wookies actually harmed in the making of the pillows, honestly, I just didn’t want to ask.
After a nap we went back to walk on the beach, it was a little foggy and it felt like we had the whole beach to ourselves. We walked and picked up sea glass for close to three hours, deciding to not go out for dinner (though I did have more re-hydrated food), we repacked our gear and relaxed for our last night in the UK. (A quick geography lesson, Berwick Upon Tweed is the first town on the England side of the Scotland/England border. Burnmouth being the last Scottish town when following the Coastal trail. Technically we spent the last two days of our trip in England.)
The next morning after a huge rack of toast, eggs, bacon and coffee we headed back to the train station and caught a train back to Edinburgh.
Now, Edinburgh is a town that deserves some decent exploration but we had our packs and half a day. So we walked up to the castle (FYI, we are really pathetic, there are several roads that will get you to the castle, Will and I, in our never ending wisdom, did not observe this fact until we had walked the steepest hill up to the castle and then looked around to realize we could have come up at least two other ways!) In front of the castle we were told that we couldn’t go in because our bags were too big and there was no place to store them because… you guessed it, our bags were too big. Knowing we couldn’t go into the castle or any museums we changed our plan of action.
Back to The Boozy Cow for another great burger!!!
On the way I picked up a Loch Ness stuffed animal for our grandson that Will promptly named Herbert. Don’t ask me, I have no idea why he would want to call the Loch Ness monster Herbert. Then to the burger joint. They decor is spray painted and heavy on rock band like atmosphere. The music is loud and from the eighties and nineties. The beer is tasty and the burgers are divine. It is super duper hard to get a good burger in Italy. We had a place we liked up in Heidelberg Germany called The Laughing Cow but so far no such luck in the Vicenza area.
Satiated with good food we called the trip a success, found a taxi stand and caught a cab back to the airport. (We did not see Jk Rowling’s house on the way back).
One last snafu with our travels when they delayed our initial flight three hours but the airline company recovered put us on another flight and got us back in Italy by 23:00 hours!
Exhausted, sore, and ready for our own beds we made our way back to our house. Now we are recovered and ready for another adventure 2 ½ days and counting until we head back towards Lake Garda, for a visit with some friends, the village of Affi and a Renaissance Fest!!
Until next week,
Ciao miei Amici